Chef Hari Nayak

He wanted to fly the friendly skies and become a pilot, but then his interest turned to architecture. In a family where mom too was a career woman, an older brother who became an engineer and a sister who decided to wield a doc’s scalpel, Hari Nayak, walked to the beat of his heart’s calling- and decided to wield the ladle!

“Most people will say it was mom’s cooking that inspired them to try their hand at cooking. In my case it was the mouth watering fare dished out by the roadside vendors and the cooks at the dhabas (roadside eateries) that inspired me. I would watch them at work and then come home and try out those dishes to rave reviews. I think my family was relieved at least someone tried to cook at home!” recalls master chef Hari Nayak with a laugh.

Initially his folks thought this obsession for wanting to be a chef was a passing fancy like his dreams of piloting a plane or creating structures, but when Hari persisted, they were initially less than pleased. ‘ You can imagine, in India and that too in a family of academicians, a chef may seem like quite the come down, but when they saw that this was what I really wanted they became quite supportive.”

Hari went to the ITC run exclusive school for hotel management in Manipal and then came to the US to study further at the Culinary Institute of America in New York.

“I learnt a lot both at Manipal and at the CIA. At Manipal we learnt an over view of all aspects of hotel management. At the Culinary Institute it was very specialized and very hands on. You learn all that you need to become a professional chef. In fact most of the leading chefs you meet these days are alumni of CIA.’

Assimilation was not a big problem, says Nayak even though there weren’t too many Indians or even Asians. “I think most of us who were there had come to learn. Most people were also aware of other ethnic cuisines and actually respected what others brought to the table. Of course there were some strange questions about India, but I had been prepared by friends for that and actually looked forward to answering them. Most people had a basic knowledge of Indian cooking.

It was pretty interesting to learn the western and European style of cooking especially French which is the highest you can go in fine dining. My knowledge of Indian cooking also helped me fine tune some of my skills. It was quite exciting.”

After graduating Hari worked at a couple of restaurants before joining Marriot and working his way up. After five years there he started his own catering business and has built quite a clientele. “Being in the NY/NJ area, I think you realize that anything Indian has quite a huge potential, and you have to challenge yourself every day to be better, and be unique because of the fierce competition.”

When asked why has there not been any Indian chef on mainstream television networks, Hari says the reason for that is lack of assimilation but, “I think things are changing for the better. Earlier mainstream America was not ready for a chef from an ethnic minority but now everything Indian, from Bollywood, to Indian fabric to Indian cuisine is attracting a lot of attention. So I think it will only be a matter of time before you see an Indian chef on major networks, showcasing exotic Indian dishes, many of whom will be fusion.”

Fusion cooking seems to be very big with Nayak and he explains the reason why. “I have often been told by non Indian customers that they get intimidated by the long list of spices and complicated recipes that they find in Indian cookbooks. I tell them to take basic spices like coriander for instance that is so universal in so many different cuisines, and buy a pack of garam masala, and try incorporating it in their own cuisine. They will see how the flavor and aroma changes and their palate will also get used to the taste and flavor. I have come up with a cook book that has recipes where I have created many a fusion. Even there I ask that you not copy the recipes totally but experiment. You’ll find that the possibilities are endless.”

The cookbook Modern Indian Cooking, co authored with the well known master chef Vikas Khanna is a two year labor of love and contains recipes of dishes Hari created and served family and friends, colleagues and clients. “I have combined the mainstream cooking method and presentation, and added an Indian touch. So there is a different feel to the recipes.”

Now with Christmas and New Year round the corner, Hari Nayak says he gets repeat requests for warm desserts and plum cakes and does his own interpretation of the famous Indian dish of whole chicken called Murg Musallam. He also gives mainstream stews an Indian flavor.


Roasted Rack of Lamb with Mint Crust

A recipe ideal for a holiday meal with friends and family, with subtle flavor hints from exotic spices and mint which goes perfectly balanced with the lamb

SERVES 4

2 racks of lamb, about 1 pound each, trimmed of visible fat

  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon ginger, minced
  • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon garam masala
  • Salt to taste
  • 1 slice whole wheat bread, lightly toasted
  • 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons ground dried mint leaves
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 tablespoons oil
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • 4 mint sprigs for garnish

Preheat the oven to 450º F.

In a large bowl marinate the lamb chops with the lemon juice, ginger, garlic, garam masala and salt. Mix well, making sure all the pieces are well-coated with the marinade.

Place the bread in a blender or food processor and pulse until it forms coarse crumbs. Add the cilantro, mint and cumin, pulse to blend.

Heat the oil in a large oven proof frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the lamb to the pan and cook, turning as needed, until browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and brush the mustard over the rounded top and the front side of the racks. Gently pat the bread crumb mixture into the mustard.

Roast in a preheated oven until a thermometer inserted into the meat reads 140 º F for medium rare, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer to a platter and let it rest.

To serve, cut the lamb between the ribs into separate bone-in chops garnished with the mint sprigs.——–


Chocolate Ginger Cake with Dates

There is nothing more comforting than a rich chocolate dessert after a good winter meal! A perfect ending.

SERVES 8

  • 8 ¾ ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
  • 2 ¼ sticks unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 4 large eggs, at room temperature
  • ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon all purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoon ginger powder
  • 3 ounces moist dates cut into small pieces

Preheat the oven to 350 º F. Butter the inside of a 9 inch cake pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper, butter the paper, and dust the inside of the pan with flour; tap out the excess and set the pan aside.

Place the chocolate in a bowl and melt it in a microwave oven. Set aside the chocolate to cool. It should feel only just warm to touch when mix it with the rest of the ingredients.

Put the butter and sugar in a bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for about 5 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl frequently until the butter is creamy and the sugar well blended into it. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for 1 minute after each addition. Reduce the mixer speed to low, pour in the cooled chocolate.

Add the flour, ginger and dates and mix it into the batter.

Scrape the batter into the pan, smooth the top and slide the pan into the oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the cake rises slightly, top may crack a bit and the cake may not entirely set in center: when you test the cake by inserting a slender knife into the center, the knife will come out slightly streaked with batter which is what you want. Transfer the cake to a rack to cool.

When the cake, chill it in the refrigerator for an hour or two to make it easy to unmould. Turn the cake out, remove the parchment and invert the cake onto a serving platter so that it is right side up. Allow the cake to come to room temperature before slicing and serving.