By Kavita A Chhibber
Vikas Khanna had a dream. It was a dream that the multi-Michelin star winning Chef, filmmaker, author (and more) constantly dreamt with his younger sister Radhika.
“Radhika used to always say ‘We have become billionaires in America. But not just us, so many others are very lonely, in spite of having every possible material thing. And we are still being told to ‘blend in’ and lose our identity. Why? We come from such a rich culture, so deeply rooted, not just in our psyche, but it has influenced the world culture at large. Why should we blend in?”
Vikas and I have been friends for close to twenty years. I know that Vikas’s vision today is very clear about the kind of work he wants to do, and about the kind of legacy he wants to leave.
I call him and we chat.
His new restaurant, he had told me a few years ago, had to be a home away from home and a space to reclaim exactly what everyone was insisting we lose – namely, our Indian identity, our pride in who we are and our rich cultural heritage. Vikas also wanted to reconnect children of Indian origin with their ancestral roots.
I say to Vikas that a sense of belonging must never be at the cost of losing our identity.
“Belonging is such a powerful word for us,” Vikas says. “And that is why the restaurant was named Bungalow 101. For someone like me coming from a humble and different background, a Bungalow in my young mind then, carried in its interiors all that Indian family values and tradition stood for. It was usually an ancestral home and each Bungalow had its own character, its many traditions which continued from generation to generation in different parts of India.”
“There were always the respected elders who presided over things and they were given so much respect and honor . There were many secrets and not everything that happened within the interiors was positive but the elders always stepped in to maintain the integrity and unity of the family. All problems were resolved by them through their wisdom and life experiences.”
“So many Bungalow owners would open their massive homes for auspicious occasions. There were always these big pots and pans made of various metals used for family meals.”
“For me that elder was my grandmother. She knew everyone and not just within our own family. She was very close to those in the neighborhood. She knew everyone’s mistakes and messes but was never judgmental. Instead she would comfort those who were troubled when bad times were happening by saying ‘Ai wi beet jayega’ (This too shall pass).”
“You know it’s strange that our parents age very slowly in our eyes. But when we look at our grandparents, we start feeling that they are very close to the end of their life. If we are lucky to receive love and nurturing from our grandparents, that transience of life and love is something we want to capture in some way.”
“You may be a celebrity, a billionaire, but when you come to your grandparents’ home you become that little child again. You go back to your ancestral roots. You leave your ego, your achievements and your sense of entitlement at the door and re-learn to be humble again.”
“So I just loved the idea of creating a space like that where people come and it immediately feels like the welcoming home of their ancestors. A home where they are embraced and fed with warmth and love. And you know I don’t do anything half-heartedly so a lot of thought and hard work went into conceptualizing this entire project.”
Vikas also added that Radhika was also very clear about another thing, and that was to support artisans whose ancestors had built so many magnificent structures, carvings, sculptures and other forms of art. Radhika sadly passed away on 28th February 2022.
“Radhika knew she had limited time on her hands. I kept staying hopeful but the doctors were not, and they made it very clear. I think that affected her the most. I was ready to donate a kidney but the impression we got was that it would not work. And that even if she received the transplant she wont survive and it may affect my health.”
“But while all this was going on I just wanted to fulfill all her dreams and wishes.”
“Even on her death bed, Radhika talked about the artwork she wanted me to commission and where they were to be kept.”
“She always said to me ‘God has given you so much barkat (blessings). There are so many artists in India who need support and we must find those right families and support them.'”
“Radhika had had brain hemorrhage. The conversations were not always coherent but the things she would say seemed like the voice of God speaking through her, giving me instructions.”
And that is how Bungalow 101 came into existence. 101 is an auspicious number in Indian culture but the vibrations are shared by many other cultures. It’s an indivisible number and it is said that good wishes and blessings must remain indivisible in order for good luck to continue endlessly.
I shared with Vikas that my own grandmother told me the number ‘1’ at the end means the receiver is indebted to the giver and they must meet again. And every time they meet, the bond will strengthen and continue. The money given as shagun (form of blessing and good omen) is to be spent but the one rupee is for investment and will bring prosperity to the recipients.
Vikas opened the restaurant on March 23rd because he wanted to honor Radhika on what would have been her 50th birthday. “I wanted her to know that I was not going to sit alone in my apartment. I was going to celebrate her birthday with the whole world. So there is a lot that is still missing in Bungalow. But we will be adding as we go.”
One of the things that did come home were two beautiful planters carved from 300 kilos of granite blocks that had been inspired by Ajanta Ellora. “The blocks were excavated from there and the carving was done by artisans from Karnataka. We could have bought those pieces from some exclusive seller but I wanted to honor her wishes to support artisans from India. It is a tribute to those who can still carve beautiful pieces from stone and with their own hands.”
I remember seeing the never ending lines on Vikas’s Instagram page in spite of rain on the opening day. I watched the super busy Master Chef outside greeting everyone with such warmth, humility and gratitude, trying to accommodate as many people as he could. There were only walk-ins and no reservations as a result of that decision for a few days if I remember correctly. Even today the restaurant has walk-ins at 5 pm to accommodate some people who cannot get a reservation.
I was told Vikas is always cool in spite of the demands of a new restaurant.
“I don’t think that is true,” Vikas laughs. “Just because I look calm on the outside does not mean it is easy. 5pm rolls around and you have to come out looking calm so that everyone who walks through the door feels welcomed. They must have the comfort of knowing that they can now relax and have a good meal. But before 5pm everything is so hectic. I have to not only make sure all is going smoothly in the kitchen but also that every guest is welcomed warmly. So there I am, taking care of the front and the back.”
“There is an insane amount of training involved, and the staff used to be incredulous ‘We have to do THIS drill everyday?!’ Yes they do, and everyone is put through the paces so that if someone walks in and says ‘I cannot eat this or that,’ the attendants should not have to say ‘Let me check with the kitchen and see if we can make something that suits your palette and is safe for you to eat.’ They should be able to immediately say ‘We absolutely have everything you need for you to enjoy your meal.’ We should be able to immediately revamp our menu and come up with whatever is needed to honor religious or cultural practices. To say I don’t know how to handle this customer’s needs is so totally wrong in my book.”
“There will always be mistakes and in that moment I do not say anything. But in the morning when we begin I am not as gentle. There are people who will say ‘Oh it’s just a job and I can walk away from it any time.’ Kavita, I read something you wrote about finding a purpose higher than yourself and so for me it has never been a job. Anything I create has always been about passion, a clear vision that is bigger than all of us. And it never happens without a heart break.”
“There is something that emerges when a broken heart makes you do a lot of soul searching. And if you are honest, you always come up with a love offering that symbolizes a higher purpose.”
I first went to Bungalow on June 1st 2024 to celebrate my birthday.
The beautiful emerald exteriors led into a very large, elegant space.
I read that the steps that take you past the beautiful waiting area, the bar and into the main dining area, were designed to resemble the stairs of the Golden Temple in Amritsar. It immediately felt like home, not just to me, but to many people who were born and grew up in the USA and had never lived in a Bungalow, or visited those exclusive Club Houses like the Delhi Gymkhana or the Willingdon Club like I have.
But what I noticed immediately after we were seated was so quintessentially Vikas Khanna.
Apart from the superstar Chef himself, there was cricket legend Kapil Dev who had flown in from India to celebrate with me. And then the legendary actor Shabana Azmi also walked in.
So there were these legends adding to the sparkle of this beautiful place. But Vikas still went from table to table, serving each guest with the same loving kindness, attention to detail and humility that he accorded the stars. He made each one of us feel very special indeed.
I remember when he owned Junoon (among the most popular restaurants in New York) and was awarded the prestigious Michelin star (thanks to Vikas): he had told me that his staff had standing orders not to give preferential treatment to the many celebrities who were regulars at the place and to treat everyone the same.
When I had asked Vikas what was his most special memory at Junoon before he left to explore even bigger horizons, he didn’t mention any of the celebrities. His most special memory he told me was when a staff member came running to him and said an elderly lady was crying and had asked for him.
Vikas knelt at her feet thinking she didn’t like something she ate. Instead she said to him tearfully that she had lived away from India for many decades but that evening the food and its taste took her back to her village. That finally she felt she was home. How special it is when a morsel of food can transport one back through space and time… back to a cherished memory.
A similar incident happened the day we dined at Bungalow. As Vikas kindly escorted us out, a young lady stopped him and exclaimed that the food she just ate reminded her so much of her grandmother’s cooking. Vikas was visibly touched and embraced her.
The food we were served was simply incredible. There were dishes that were purely Indian in origin but with a twist and creativity that left us all speechless. There were familiar dishes we had eaten elsewhere but never quite as good. And then there were dishes that we had not seen on any other Indian menu. The perfection with which Vikas had created them defied any comparison.
Because each and every dish was served with love and tasted out of this world, I had no personal favorite. Vikas says the most challenging and simultaneously satisfying creation for him is the spice-roasted pineapple he first ate in Udupi in western Karnataka. He created his own version of it. All of us loved it.
Kapil Dev has been to the best restaurants around the world. I had the pleasure of introducing him to Vikas a couple of years ago. He said to me “I feel very proud and privileged to have dined at Bungalow. The presentation and the taste get seven stars from me. It was Indian food and yet so different. It is even more heartening to know that Bungalow is always sold out with a huge waiting list. I hope Vikas will open a chain globally. I am very proud to know him and I wish him all the luck.”
I went again a couple of weeks later because I wanted my brother Rajan Jetley and his wife Rita to meet Vikas and eat at Bungalow. Rajan is a legend in the hospitality and aviation industries (and beyond). He is also a foodie, having owned multiple restaurants all over the world. He has eaten at all the top restaurants in the world as well, so he knows food quality and presentation like no one else.
It warmed my heart to see Vikas, with whom I had talked about Rajan over the years, immediately touch Rajan’s feet. But then that is class and good values taught by his elders. And a total lack of ego.
We had gone early and Rajan said “To see an Indian restaurant overflowing with Indians and that too at 5pm is unheard of, even in India, leave alone here in the USA.”
As he ate the food, Rajan said “This is not hype. This food is incredible. Vikas is doing us all very proud. My wife Rita and I travel extensively all over… and we love Indian food. We were truly impressed with the authenticity of each dish both in flavor and presentation! It is a rare feat to achieve even at home in India, leave aside thousands of miles from home. Vikas has always had the magic touch which cannot be learned or acquired. He is just plain gifted! We wish him all the success.”
I ask Vikas: What has been the toughest challenge so far?
“The inability to accommodate everyone who has had such strong faith in their hearts and the burning desire that no matter what, I have to spend my evening at The Bungalow. This year’s graduation in various institutions was very overwhelming. Young people have walked in, in large numbers every day and shown me texts from their parents who could either not afford to come in due to financial constraints or didn’t get a visa. They have told their kids ‘It’s a special day, don’t spend it alone. Go to Vikas Khanna’s restaurant, show him our text. People who don’t know me and I them, want to be here to spend their special day.”
“There was a girl who came here the other day and showed me a text from her mom even as I told her we had not one seat available. She then informed me it was her birthday and she did not want to spend it alone. It touched me somewhere so we served her cake in the lounge.”
Vikas Khanna’s journey has been very long with both darkness and light, failures and successes alternating. But he never gave up, he never became arrogant. If there is anything he is an ace at, it is to share love, to make each person feel he is their best friend. I ask him what made him not give up because I have known some of the tough times he has faced, and has overcome with his usual grace.
“My journey has indeed been a long one and there were many turbulent moments. So many people wanted me to fail. I felt like I was on probation every moment. But I learnt from Shahrukh Khan who showed by example that you must stay silent in the time of adversity.”
“Those who think they can replace the King with another King don’t know the hard work, the scars that have brought him to where he was. And when the time arrived for a comeback, he put his heart and soul into his work and stayed focused. He proved great Kings are not that easily replaced. It’s the same with Chefs. Chef Sanjeev Kapoor is my inspiration. He carved the path for future generations of chefs to succeed.
“I don’t think I can ever write my autobiography because it would mean I will have to reveal the very dark side of this industry and I want to bring light instead. I do tell the youngsters who want to become chefs to work hard relentlessly and always remember that the sandalwood tree has the maximum number of snakes on it. But they must believe just like I did that if I worked hard relentlessly, focused, had patience and dedication and if I succeed I will help create the currency for Indian cuisine globally. There is no short cut. Everyone on this path must absorb the teaching like a sponge, understand what all goes on in the kitchen, how the hierarchy is established, how to reinvent dishes and to understand the need for consistent hard work and not give up.”
“Sometimes people tell me, ‘Chef, it is not normal or healthy that you do not have a family to support you.'”
“I miss my mother terribly but I know I cannot move back to India. I honestly don’t know what the word “normal’ means, when you have dedicated your entire life to putting India’s culture on the map and you love every day of it. When you are loved in return, then everyone becomes family.”
What has been the biggest life lesson?
“I have learnt that everything is a transaction except the relationship with your parents. My mother was the one who immediately flew in after Radhika’s death. I was not in my senses. She pulled me out of it. When you come out of such dark times then you become even more passionate about lighting up the lives of others.”
“I remember this incident very vividly. We had started our little out of home venture. The space was very limited and there were other limitations. One day, I came back after shopping for vegetables and didn’t see my mom. I went looking for her and found her cleaning the sewage drain on our street by herself. She made sure she took care of all the dirt before I started. There were times the customers didn’t treat her well but she never gave up nor did she let me give up.”
“It is said that you are a reflection of your parents. I learnt to work hard and not to give up from the best of the best.”
“People like my mother and my grandmother never cared or will ever get the credit and fame that their children may get. But we stand and rise on the shoulders of our parents and grandparents. They stay awake on the darkest nights so we can shine in the light. I remember in our most difficult days my grandmother often created the most magical food so we could survive and thrive.”
“That is why I wrote (the novel) Imaginary Rain, to share the stories of our ancestors and their sacrifices.”
The novel is now a film starring Shabana Azmi in the lead role. She is someone who Vikas loves and respects immensely. I asked her to share her thoughts as a surprise for Vikas.
Shabana ji said “I had a few fleeting meetings with him over the years. But it was only during the making of Imaginary Rain that I got to know him and realised that “passionate” is the most apt adjective for all and everything that is Vikas Khanna.”
“When I first stepped into his dream restaurant I was surprised by its size and wondered how he was going to cater to its insatiable demands. To build a restaurant in the midst of Manhattan, in an area dotted by eating places, was no mean challenge.”
“However, I knew that the bigger the challenge, the more Vikas gets propelled to rise to the occasion.”
“Bungalow – within 3 months of its opening earned its place as the No.1 restaurant in New York!”
“Bravo Vikas, you’ve achieved the near impossible dream you had. Your sister Radhika must be flashing her beautiful smile and saying ‘See? My Viku did it!'”
Vikas had said this to me on another occasion.
“When someone works hard to earn an income and then he decides to use some of it to buy food from my restaurant, that is because he believes in my skills. Who knows when the divine will walk through my door in the clothes of a diner? If he gets a dish he doesn’t like, then I am letting down three generations of people who worked hard so I could rise on their shoulders.”
For me personally Bungalow 101 is not just any other restaurant. It is a reflection of who Vikas Khanna is. For everyone whose path has ever crossed his, Vikas symbolizes generosity, pure love, brilliance, humility and positive energy. Pure intent is always followed by barkat (abundance).
It is also a reflection of how far Vikas has come and he credits it to the blessings, teachings and support from the three shaktis in his life. His Biji (grandmother), his feisty mom Bindu Khanna and his sister Radhika. They remain the wind beneath his wings from the time when his mother retorted to the doctor who saw her little son’s club feet and said he would never run: “That is because he is meant to fly!”
For Vikas there is a reason why Bungalow has received such an overwhelming welcome. “There are bigger, more talented Chefs than me”, he says with humility. “But Bungalow is not just any one person’s reality. Its an emotion that has to be captured seamlessly to bring you home, to remind you where you came from.”
“How do you interpret something that is infinite and still holds on to its roots? Everyone must feel they belong here and are served a slice of home with love. Small things really matter. Serving dal (lentils) in an authentic vessel like our grandparents served us with a slice of onion, lemon and green chilis matters. There is a lot of discussion before anything makes it to the table. We may have forgotten, but our cells, our palette have not forgotten the memories, the aroma and the fragrance of our grandmothers cooking for us. I have ordered fruits and other spices directly from India while staff have asked me why I am so obsessed with going into the minutest details. It is because I want to present and recreate different dishes while keeping their authenticity. I want people to return to their childhood memories and keep those experiences alive. Radhika always said that I must make sure what I serve in my restaurants should make people feel that what they received was authentic and heartfelt and not merely a business transaction.
On July 2nd Bungalow will complete 101 days and is already trending as the number one restaurant in NYC.
Vikas’s life reminds me of this beautiful thought by Peggy Tabor Millin:
I was on a train on a rainy day. The train was slowing down to pull into a station. For some reason, I became intent on watching the raindrops on the window. Two separate drops, pushed by the wind, merged into one for a moment and then divided again – each carrying with it a part of the other. Simply by that momentary touching, neither was what it had been before. And as each one went on to touch other raindrops, it shared not only itself, but what it had gleaned from the other. I saw this metaphor many years ago and it is one of my most vivid memories. I realized then that we never touch people so lightly that we do not leave a trace.
Congratulations Vikas and your entire team, for creating an oasis and never ending magic!
A footnote (3-July-2024):
Woke up for brahma muhurat prayers and saw a bunch of emails about my indepth piece on what Bungalow, #VikasKhanna ‘s new restaurant and Vikas himself really mean for me.
This one particular email caught my eye.
“Read your piece on Bungalow twice. I was under the impression it would be a restaurant review. Instead it turned out to be about values that Vikas Khanna stands for, and life lessons we can incorporate in our lives. I have followed Khanna for years and it’s heart warming to know he is the real deal. I have shared the link to the story with many of my friends. This was such a breath of fresh air.
Thank you also for publishing the piece in print. A lot of us are getting tired of podcasts and videocasts.
This is something we can read again and again at leisure.”
Thank you Manoj Vaswani.
Vikas has often said to me that serving food for him was always a sacred offering. His connection with it truly began in the interiors of the Golden Temple where he did sewa as a kid and it continued into adulthood.
His documentary “Holy Kitchens” was a result of that sewa. It’s on YouTube. Watch it.
When he served his very creative pineapple dish inspired by a holy kitchen in Udipi to us on the table, you could see the love, that humility, the energy around him. When he recorded not one but two videos for Sergio thanking him for the Ganesha Sergio had painted for him, it showed one soul honoring another with loving kindness.
When he shared why he never gave up, and has dedicated his entire life to putting Indian cuisine on the global map, and reclaim the identity for Indians around the world and future generations, it shows pride in your culture and selflessness that is rare to come by.
What moved us all deeply was this young couple who walked up to us outside the restaurant as Vikas was sharing with us about those beautiful granite planters to honor Radhika’s wishes to support artisans.
The girl said to Vikas “This was the best meal I’ve had in my life. It reminded me of my nani (maternal grandmother) and her cooking.”
And Vikas said (visibly touched), “You don’t know what those words mean to me.” In three months he has achieved not just the status of Bungalow trending as the number 1 restaurant in NYC, but what he set out to do in the first place, create a sanctuary that immediately felt like home.
That is among the many things why Bungalow and Vikas represent something way more than Indian cuisine. And why I wrote the feature in the first place.
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